CABLE & LACE SWEATER

 

BOTTOM-UP • SEAMED CONSTRUCTION • FIVE SIZES

US terms | Skill level: Intermediate / Advanced Beginner with cable experience

 

Sizes & finished measurements

Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL). Choose a size with approximately 8–14 cm / 3–5.5 in of positive ease.

Size	XS	S	M	L	XL
Finished bust	86 cm	96 cm	106 cm	116 cm	126 cm
Body width (each piece)	43 cm	48 cm	53 cm	58 cm	63 cm
Body length to shoulder	48 cm	49 cm	50 cm	51 cm	52 cm
Sleeve length from underarm	43 cm	44 cm	45 cm	46 cm	47 cm
Upper sleeve circumference	30 cm	34 cm	38 cm	42 cm	46 cm

Measurements are approximate and depend on yarn, blocking, and individual tension.

Materials

·        Yarn: approximately 1,100 (1,200, 1,300, 1,450, 1,600) m / 1,200 (1,310, 1,420, 1,585, 1,750) yd of DK-weight wool or wool-blend yarn. Choose a smooth, round yarn so the cables and eyelets remain clear.

·        Suggested fiber:  merino wool, wool/alpaca blend, or a soft wool-acrylic blend; color: natural ivory / ecru.

·        Main needles: 4 mm (US 6) circular or straight needles, used flat.

·        Ribbing needles: 3.5 mm (US 4) circular or straight needles.

·        Cable needle, stitch holders or waste yarn, 6 stitch markers, tapestry needle, measuring tape, and blocking pins.

Gauge

22 sts and 30 rows = 10 cm / 4 in in stockinette stitch on 4 mm needles, after blocking. Cable and lace fabric may pull in more than stockinette; use the blocked swatch to confirm finished width.

Swatching  Work a swatch at least 18 cm wide including one full 64-stitch motif repeat. Wash and dry it as you will the finished sweater. If the fabric is too dense, change to larger needles; if too loose, change to smaller needles.

 

Abbreviations

Abbreviation	Meaning
BO	bind off
CO	cast on
k	knit
p	purl
RS / WS	right side / wrong side
st(s)	stitch(es)
rep	repeat
M1L / M1R	make one left / right leaning increase
k2tog	knit 2 together
ssk	slip, slip, knit
yo	yarn over
C4F	slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front; k2, then k2 from cable needle
C4B	slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back; k2, then k2 from cable needle
p2tog	purl 2 together
sl	slip
pm	place marker

 

Stitch pattern & motif placement

The visual motif is built from a 64-stitch central panel: a pair of broad, travelling cable lines form tall diamonds, while eyelet diamonds sit between and beside the cables. For the written reconstruction, work the central panel over 64 sts and keep the remaining stitches in stockinette. This creates the same strong vertical placement as the reference garment.

How to work the lace diamond panel

Use the following balanced eyelet sequence within the openwork sections. On RS rows, work: *k2, yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo*; repeat as indicated by the panel. On WS rows, purl the purl stitches and knit the yarn-over stitches unless the swatch shows a different texture is needed. Offset the eyelet pairs on the next lace row to create a diamond rather than a straight column of holes.

Cable diamond panel

·        Keep the cable boundary stitches in reverse stockinette (purl on RS, knit on WS) to make the raised cable stand out.

·        Work the cable crossings at regular intervals, approximately every 8th RS row. Use C4F on one travelling line and C4B on its partner.

·        Between crossings, work the cable stitches in stockinette. Increase or decrease the number of plain rows between crossings only if needed to match the blocked swatch.

Chart reference supplied with the pattern

The supplied chart is 64 stitches wide and numbered through 69 rows. Use it to compare the placement and rhythm of the lace and cable diamonds. Because the original key is missing, do not assume that every printed mark can be translated unambiguously; follow the written stitch definitions and swatch first.

 

Back

With 3.5 mm needles, CO 96 (106, 116, 128, 138) sts.

1.      Work 1x1 rib (k1, p1) for 7 cm / 2¾ in, ending after a WS row.

2.      Change to 4 mm needles. Establish the pattern: work the 64-stitch cable-and-lace panel centered on the piece; work the remaining sts in stockinette. For XS, work 16 sts, panel, 16 sts; for S, 21 sts, panel, 21 sts; for M, 26 sts, panel, 26 sts; for L, 32 sts, panel, 32 sts; for XL, 37 sts, panel, 37 sts.

3.      Continue in established pattern until piece measures 32 (33, 34, 35, 36) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

4.      Shape armholes: BO 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.

5.      Decrease 1 st at each armhole edge on every RS row 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) times: k1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Work even until armhole measures 18 (19, 20, 21, 22) cm.

6.      Shape shoulders: BO 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then BO 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows. BO remaining shoulder sts loosely.

If you prefer a straight back neck, bind off the center 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) sts when the armhole measures 16 (17, 18, 19, 20) cm; work each shoulder separately, binding off 2 sts once at the neck edge.

Front

Work as for Back until armhole measures 12 (13, 14, 15, 16) cm.

7.      Shape front neck: work to the center 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts and place these sts on a holder. Join a second ball of yarn and work both sides separately.

8.      At each neck edge, BO 4 sts once, 3 sts once, 2 sts once, then 1 st 3 times. Maintain the cable and lace pattern as far as possible; work partial motifs in stockinette if there are not enough stitches to complete a repeat.

9.      When armhole measures 18 (19, 20, 21, 22) cm, shape each shoulder to match the Back. BO shoulder stitches in the same stepped sequence.

Keep the neckline shallow and rounded. If your preferred fit requires a higher neck, begin shaping 1–2 cm later.

 

Sleeves (make 2)

With 3.5 mm needles, CO 46 (50, 54, 58, 62) sts.

10.   Work 1x1 rib for 8 cm / 3¼ in. Change to 4 mm needles.

11.   Next RS row: work 1 (3, 5, 7, 9) sts in stockinette, work the 44-stitch sleeve motif (a narrowed version of the cable/lace panel), then work 1 (3, 5, 7, 9) sts in stockinette. If your chart swatch uses a full 64-stitch repeat, use the central 44 stitches of the repeat and keep the outer cable edges symmetrical.

12.   Increase 1 st at each side every 8th row 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) times, incorporating new stitches into stockinette. Total: 66 (72, 78, 84, 90) sts.

13.   Continue until sleeve measures 43 (44, 45, 46, 47) cm from cast-on edge, or desired length, ending after a WS row.

14.   Shape sleeve cap: BO 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts at beginning of next 2 rows. Decrease 1 st at each end every RS row 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) times. BO 2 sts at beginning of next 4 rows. BO remaining sts.

Sleeve cap should measure approximately 14–16 cm. Adjust cap depth to fit the armhole before seaming; small differences can be eased in gently.

Neckband

15.   Sew one shoulder seam. With 3.5 mm circular needle and RS facing, pick up and knit approximately 92–108 sts evenly around the neckline, including held center-front sts. Pick up about 3 sts for every 4 rows along straight edges.

16.   Place marker at shoulder seams. Work in the round in 1x1 rib (k1, p1) for 4–5 cm. On the front center, decrease 1 st on either side of the center stitch every other round if needed to keep the rib lying flat.

17.   BO loosely in pattern. Sew the second shoulder seam and the neckband seam neatly.

 

Finishing & assembly

18.   Weave in all ends on the wrong side, securing yarn tails without pulling the lace eyelets closed.

19.   Wet-block each piece separately. Soak in cool water with wool wash, press out excess water in a towel, lay flat, and pin to the measurements. Open the lace diamonds gently; do not stretch the cables flat.

20.   Sew shoulder seams using mattress stitch or a neat backstitch.

21.   Set sleeves into armholes, matching sleeve center to shoulder seam and sleeve edges to armhole edges. Distribute any slight excess evenly.

22.   Sew sleeve seams from cuff to underarm, then sew side seams from hem to underarm. Join underarm edges securely.

23.   Fold no edges; the hem and cuffs are finished with ribbing. Lightly steam from a distance only if the yarn label permits.

Fit & customization

·        For a longer sweater, add length in stockinette sections before beginning armhole shaping.

·        For a more oversized fit, choose the next size up or add 4–8 sts to each body piece, keeping the motif centered.

·        For a closer sleeve, omit one or two increase pairs, but check that the upper sleeve circumference still allows comfortable movement.

·        For a cropped version, shorten the body before armhole shaping; keep at least 6–7 cm of ribbing for visual balance.